View of Bahia Concepcion,
from Coyote Bay.
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Wood is scarce in Baja, but most of the town's older houses are built of lumber, shipped south from Oregon and Washington on the barges that delivered cargoes of smelted ore to refineries in the Pacific Northwest.
The town's church, prefabricated from galvanized iron, was designed by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel for use in tropical Africa. It was first displayed at the 1889 Paris World Fair, alongside the Eiffel Tower. A Boleo official found the church stored in pieces, bought it, shipped it, and had it re-assembled for use by Boleo employees.
The best baguettes in Baja are said to come from the local bakery. And, the gas pumps at Santa Rosalía's Pemex station are reputed to be the most dishonest in all of Baja, although that claim is open to question.
The small town of Mulegé, about an hour south on Highway 1, is more in the tradition of a Mexican beach resort. Its palm-lined estuary, narrow, unpaved streets, and miles of nearby beaches make it an attractive stop for tourists and expatriates looking for unsurpassed fishing, diving and leisurely living.
Although north of the Tropic of Cancer, Mulegé has the tropical ambience of southern Baja, with pleasant, sunny winters and hot, humid summers. Services are limited, and things move slowly in Mulegé.
The only bank in town closed its doors some years ago, promising to reopen after the streets were paved. The town is waiting to pave its streets, until after the bank reopens.
Views of Bahia Concepcion.
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Late one night, I reached San Ignacio after driving all day from San Quintín in my overloaded Volkswagen bus. But, I was determined to bypass San Ignacio's overpriced La Pinta, and try for the popular and more reasonable El Morro, a nice hotel set on a bluff above the beach just south of Santa Rosalía.
When I got there, its lights were out. It was closed, for no apparent reason. Reluctant to backtrack, I pushed on in the dark to take my chances in Mulegé. After a frustrating time negotiating Mulegé's maze of narrow one-way streets, fearing for my squished tires as they bounced along the ruts from rock to pothole, I found a place to park and struck out on foot.
Within half an hour, I had covered the whole town. I found only one available room, at the Las Terrazas Hotel. For twenty dollars, the room was large and airy and quiet, spotless but for peeling paint, air conditioned, well furnished, with hot water and modern plumbing. I had my choice of two beds, and both were comfortable.
There was secure parking for the loaded bus. Outside my door was a large terrace with a view of Mulegé. Downstairs was a cozy bar, where a friendly patron insisted on buying me a cold Negra Modelo. The bartender directed me to the best steak and seafood dinner in town, a delicious bargain. I slept well that night.